Fashion: The Century of the Designer

1990 – 1999

Fashion, so it is said, is a prevailing trend that pervades society parallel to world history. Fashion is about the desire for change, and this makes it as much a part of our basic outfit as the power of habit.

The development of fashion reached a decisive turning point at the very beginning of the 20th century. Suddenly fashion became institutionalized, and the new phe nomenon of haute couture was unleashed. The different branches of couture still crossed the path of what became known as street fashion, and toward the end of the century couture branched out into movements such as designer fashion or boutique fashion. But, despite all these diversions, the characteristic undercurrent of couture has remained intact: constants are the high standard of workmanship, the extra-ordinary quality of the materials, the love of detail, and the search for something new.

This volume follows the evolution of fash-ion from the beginning of the 20th century to its very end, taking in all the diversions, influxes, and crossroads along the way.

These include the influence of ballet at the beginning of the century, the appearance of glamorous movie stars in the 1930s and the advent of anti-fashion in the 1970s; all the women whose appearance gave fresh stimulus to the world; important events in world culture; pioneering inventions in the technology of dressmaking and fabrics; and the development of the various looks, hair-style, and make-up which accompany trends of fashion. The most important influences of all, however, are the creators themselves, whether we call them couturiers or designers. A comprehensive biographical portrait is devoted to each of them, detailing their most important designs and their special characteristics.

This volume is effectively two books in one: it is an encyclopedia of fashion designers, including all the important names of the 20th century, and a colorful panorama of the fashion scene and all those who have played leading, supporting, and background roles. A comprehensive appendix, with an illustrated glossary, a list of addresses of the most important fashion schools, and an extensive index completes this volume.